‘Latte e Miele’: Pastry Heaven at Borgo Italia

A little past midnight every day, Franco Camboli rolls into Borgo Italia Bar and Caffé, rubs the sleep out of his eyes, and prepares himself for a long night of working dough and whipping cream. As the old Dunkin’ Donuts commercials used to say, “Time to make the doughnuts.

At Borgo Italia (499 9th St.), Old Oakland’s new Italian restaurant, the doughnuts in question aren’t your standard powdered-sugar-dusted or jelly-filled affairs. Instead, customers can choose from a wide array of delicate Italian pastries — the same kinds that Camboli prepared at his family’s pastry shop in Tuscany for thirty years: ciambelli, a kind of doughnut made from choux pastry that’s sliced in half and filled with cream, and little Italian-style beignets.

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