.Food & Drink

Nov 29, 2023

Oakland’s Mensho Innovates Ramen

The name of Chef Tomoharu Shono’s latest ramen restaurant, Mensho, combines the Japanese character for “men,” which means “noodle” in Japanese, with the first syllable of Chef Shono’s name. Store manager Abram Plaut believes it’s a good name for the company, saying, “It sounds nice off the tongue.” Plaut described...
Nov 14, 2023

Masa

Batter Bakery
Oct 31, 2023

Batter Bakery

Batter Bakery is the newest tenant in the beautiful brick building on the corner of Eighth and Carleton, in Berkeley. Joining La Noisette and Standard Fare, Jen Musty’s bakery was previously based in San Francisco. East Bay...
Kinda Izakaya
Oct 24, 2023

Kinda Izakaya

Kinda Izakaya wouldn’t be out of place in one of Haruki Murakami’s books. When the Japanese novelist constructs a scene that takes place in a bar or restaurant, his settings often become portals for the characters. When...
Matty’s Old Fashioned
Oct 18, 2023

Matty’s Old Fashioned

At Matty’s Old Fashioned, meat’s at the forefront of Chef Matt Horn’s mind. After mastering the art of cooking brisket, spare ribs and pulled pork at Horn Barbecue, his first Bay Area restaurant, Horn’s latest venture doesn’t...
Lexie's Frozen Custard
Oct 11, 2023

Lexie’s Frozen Custard

Lexie LeCount tasted her first frozen custard in Rochester, New York. “I thought it was the best thing I’d ever eaten,” she said. When LeCount describes it to people who’ve never tried it, she tells them, “It’s...
The Gastronomical She
Oct 10, 2023

The Gastronomical She

In Gregory Bezat’s documentary, The Art of Eating: The Life of M.F.K. Fisher, a chorus of approving food luminaries, biographers and friends testify on behalf of the late American author. Well-known cultural figures such as Jacques Pépin,...
Popoca
Oct 3, 2023

Popoca

On Popoca’s menu, fire symbols appear next to items that are prepared outside on the restaurant’s back patio. A sous chef stands in front of an open fire, heating up each dish in a large brick-lined hearth....
Los Cilantros
Sep 27, 2023

Los Cilantros

Chef Dilsa Lugo’s flan de coco ($6) has changed my mind about the dessert. She serves her thrilling version cold, like a frozen custard that’s just as creamy. The liquid caramel on top spills over the sides,...
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