.Restaurant Review

Nov 29, 2023

Oakland’s Mensho Innovates Ramen

The name of Chef Tomoharu Shono’s latest ramen restaurant, Mensho, combines the Japanese character for “men,” which means “noodle” in Japanese, with the first syllable of Chef Shono’s name. Store manager Abram Plaut believes it’s a good name for the company, saying, “It sounds nice off the tongue.” Plaut described...
Nov 14, 2023


Matty’s Old Fashioned
Oct 18, 2023

Matty’s Old Fashioned

At Matty’s Old Fashioned, meat’s at the forefront of Chef Matt Horn’s mind. After mastering the art of cooking brisket, spare ribs and pulled pork at Horn Barbecue, his first Bay Area restaurant, Horn’s latest venture doesn’t...
Lexie's Frozen Custard
Oct 11, 2023

Lexie’s Frozen Custard

Lexie LeCount tasted her first frozen custard in Rochester, New York. “I thought it was the best thing I’d ever eaten,” she said. When LeCount describes it to people who’ve never tried it, she tells them, “It’s...
Oct 3, 2023


On Popoca’s menu, fire symbols appear next to items that are prepared outside on the restaurant’s back patio. A sous chef stands in front of an open fire, heating up each dish in a large brick-lined hearth....
Los Cilantros
Sep 27, 2023

Los Cilantros

Chef Dilsa Lugo’s flan de coco ($6) has changed my mind about the dessert. She serves her thrilling version cold, like a frozen custard that’s just as creamy. The liquid caramel on top spills over the sides,...
Blossom & Root
Sep 19, 2023

Blossom & Root

The number of Bay Area plant-based restaurants contracts more than it expands. Although Greens is still going strong, Gracias Madre recently closed in San Francisco’s Mission District. In the East Bay, Temescal’s Kitava opened earlier this year...
Mama Judy Singapore Hawker
Sep 12, 2023

Mama Judy

On Mama Judy Singapore Hawker’s opening day, the diner sitting next to me noticed my enthusiasm for a curry puff ($4.50). After I described the delicious blend of spices, the crispness of the pastry, and the tender...
Eggy's Neighborhood Kitchen
Sep 5, 2023

Eggy’s Neighborhood Kitchen

Since opening in 2006, Berkeley’s Epicurious Garden has retained an air of culinary remove. Lunch lines form daily at the Cheese Board across the street and around the corner at Fava. Next door, dinner patrons continually walk...
East Bay Express E-edition East Bay Express E-edition