.Restaurant Review

May 18, 2022

Roji Ramen Is a HOG Heaven

Ninna’s closed doors are now open for Roji Ramen Roji Ramen is the perfect place for diners who happen to share a passion for noodle soup and motorcycles. Co-owned by Suradet Detwongya and Chef Atthapon Inkhong, Detwongya is the motorcycle aficionado who came up with the restaurant’s theme. “Atthapon loves...
Apr 20, 2022

Ceron Kitchen’s Siren Song: Muddled dishes served in an impersonal Alameda dining room

Our meal at Ceron Kitchen began with a complimentary amuse-bouche. Served in a soft-boiled egg cup, the server described the pale orange liquid as butternut squash soup. It tasted like a viscous, overly sweet, macaroni and cheese...
Apr 13, 2022

Tarts de Feybesse: Wife and husband team expand pandemic bakery into a sweet success

Paul Feybesse arrived at my front door wearing a jaunty hat set at an angle. He smiled and handed me a box of éclairs. For a second, I thought an angel had descended from Heaven to bless...
Apr 6, 2022

Tane Vegan: Vegetables get the love they deserve at this vegan izakaya

There are those of us in the human community who love to eat okra. Others, perhaps many, many others, not so much. Unforgiving eaters slander the vegetable with a single, damning adjective—slimy. But that condemnation shouldn’t lie...
Mar 30, 2022

Humbowl: Chef Miles Kline and Managing Member Eric Wright are part of the humble...

If, as a parent, you’re exhausted by the eternally recurring question, “What’s for dinner?”, the co-founders of Humbowl have an answer for you. A couple of the co-founders, Miles Kline and Eric Wright, are both fathers who...
Mar 23, 2022

The Farmer’s Daughter Opens Pomet: Aomboon Deasy and Chef Alan Hsu are serving what’s...

Aomboon Deasy has a gift for making people feel comfortable. Last week, on the opening night of her restaurant, Pomet, Deasy greeted arriving diners like they were old friends. Her hospitable approach didn’t feel calculated. It felt...
Mar 16, 2022

A New Beginning at Nuevo Sol: Chef Gilberto Monroy can poach a perfect egg...

My keen sense of déjà vu kicked in this weekend while I was eating brunch at Gilberto Monroy’s Nuevo Sol. The plate of lemon ricotta pancakes I ordered looked exactly — and I mean exactly — like...
Mar 9, 2022

Kowbird: Matt Horn’s new restaurant features three different fried-chicken sandwiches

Matt Horn’s culinary moment has outlasted the buzz and media blitz that accompanied the opening of Horn Barbecue. Since October 2020, the chef and his West Oakland restaurant have been featured in every local news outlet, along...
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