.Restaurant Review

Jun 7, 2023


Where the pasta will gnocchi your socks off Whether it’s pillows of gnocchi, spaghetti strings or the twisted strands of casarecce, the homemade pasta dishes at Matt Solimano’s Sfizio make one forget that other Italian restaurants exist. Regardless, Solimano, whose heritage is Italian, claims his culinary approach isn’t solely defined...
May 17, 2023


May 3, 2023

The Calypso Rose

Cool jerk lands in Emeryville At Verna McGowan’s The Calypso Rose, the biggest seller is a Guyanese oxtail pepper pot. “I can't keep enough of that in house,” McGowan said. “It is my number one all day long.”...
Apr 26, 2023

Desta Does It

Sirgout Aga Badana moves out of the farmers’ market and onto Oakland Avenue   Dan Fontes’ murals of giraffes are the only ambassadors beneath the 580 underpass on Harrison Street in Oakland. They greet passersby in silence with cool,...
Apr 19, 2023

Mama’s Boy

20” New York pizza pies are cooking inside of a new Oakland kitchen   At Mama’s Boy Pizza, business partners Ezra Berman and Miles Palliser are making simple pizza pies. “We’re not breaking the creative mold, and we’re not...
Apr 12, 2023

Dumplings United

Pot stickers, dumplings and bao  In February, Julia Zhu and her business partner, Sandy Zheng, opened the third iteration of their San Francisco restaurant chain, United Dumplings. After landing in Rockridge, United has become the third dumpling-focused spot...
Apr 5, 2023

Pizzeria de Laura

Deep dish! Sicilian! Grandma! Classic New York!  Rumor has it that the “Grandma” style of pizza was genetically engineered in the kitchens of Long Island grandmas before being released into society. They’re still a rarity on the West...
Mar 29, 2023

France in Oakland

Left Bank has chosen to imprint the Gilded Age of a brasserie onto Oakland and the East Bay  The tables in neighborhood French bistros are imperfect, wobbly, scratched. Plates are chipped, tablecloths stained. Paint is peeling off the...
Mar 22, 2023

For Starters

Brian Wood’s new retail space is just getting started It might be considered blasphemy to publicly declare that I loved Brian Wood’s babka as much as, if not more than, the kouign amann that established his reputation as...
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