It’s in the El Cerrito Plaza shopping center, next to the supermarket, but you have to walk in to see what it’s really like. There’s a pool table. There’s a jukebox that has some potential, if you dig around a little. The women’s bathroom has pink shag carpeting, even around the toilet. There’s a sort of mini fountain on one wall. There’s a guy behind the bar who is all business when he serves up that gin and tonic. On special days, there’s another guy who appears out of nowhere to bring popcorn and noisemakers to your table. There’s a swing combo on Friday nights — and the place is draped in gold wallpaper, flocked with fake red velvet. We love Mel-O-Dee.