In honor of the official launch of summer, we turn this week to
three refreshing whites from three strikingly different wine regions:
Alsace, coastal South Africa, and the general California appellation
(read: Central Valley). Despite the usually vast differences between
both the regions and the varietals we picked, these wines had lots in
common — and lots to like.
Even jaded oenophilic travelers can’t help but gush about the Alsace
region of France, an area littered with wineries that retains a
medieval village feeling sharply contrasting with the country’s
better-known wine regions. Pinot Blanc is one of Alsace’s most prolific
grapes, and although it’s considered something of a workhouse, that
shouldn’t diminish any expectations about its quality. Made from
biodynamically grown grapes, the 2006 Rayon de Lune Pinot Blanc
($24.95) had an aroma of apple and pear, with more pear on the
palate; I also smelled something a bit flinty and metallic. Token
Winemaker speculated that the grapes in this wine might have had Muscat
in their parentage. The good acid, delicate body, and slight sweetness
would be a nice complement to spicy Asian food.
As Pinot Blanc is to Alsace, so Chenin Blanc is to South Africa. A
workhorse wine long made with little emphasis on craftsmanship, Chenin
Blanc has emerged from South Africa’s wine renaissance as a serious
contender still available at workhorse prices. The 2008 MAN Vintners
Chenin Blanc ($7.99) had little fruit in the aroma — instead
I got stone, honey, and subtle oak, and we both noted a slightly
vegetal scent. In past reviews, we’ve noted herbaceousness in both
MAN’s Shiraz and Sauvignon Blanc, so “grassy” must just be the theme at
this Stellenbosch-based winery. Token Winemaker complained of a
“cloying graininess” to the taste of this wine, as well as excessive
residual sugar and acid, but I found it pretty inoffensive — if a
bit ho-hum.
We tasted blind as usual this week, and I for one expected to rank
Ironstone’s 2008 California Chardonnay ($10) last in terms of my
favorites. That’s not a knock on Ironstone, whose wines I often like
— it’s more a symptom of fatigue with California’s most-popular
varietals. Plus, I still have fond memories of the fabulously dry,
unoaked Chards we tasted from Mendocino a few weeks back (“Hold the
Oak,” 4/15/09). Well, Cali Chard producers get the last laugh, as the
Ironstone was my favorite of the three. I found it pleasant and
versatile — drinkable on its own but easy to imagine with a
variety of foods. The bouquet evoked tropical fruits, baked goods, and
vanilla, and the wine was smooth and well-balanced. Token Winemaker was
shocked to learn that this wine was a Chardonnay; “big” as it was, it
just didn’t have the varietal’s classic characteristics. Full of
surprises, it makes for fine bargain.
