After fifteen years cooking at Oakland’s much-beloved Oliveto, Chef Paul Canales wanted a place to call his very own. But he isn’t just going to tweak the Italian-meets-Cal-cuisine template from his last gig; he plans to build something completely fresh, from the ground up. “Oliveto suggests a certain way of eating, but I don’t want to be stuck with a high degree of formality,” says Canales. “I want something free-form.”