If you’re going to go out early, this is probably the way to do it: with a heaping pile of fatty-crispy-perfect hand-cut French fries fried to order every time and then smothered in gloppy, unctuous gravy, and then dotted with authentic Quebec cheese curds. That basic option is damn near ambrosial — crunchy and rich and so so salty in the best way possible — but Smoke’s, a smallish North American chain that only recently expanded to California from Canada, doesn’t sleep on the add-ins, extras, and special options. Think pulled pork, whole pierogi(!), Montreal-style smoked meat, homemade chili, guacamole, even dill pickles. It’s not for the delicate, but nothing good in this life ever is.