Best Sandwiches: The ideal pork-scented lunch nosh

El Jarro

The best Oaxacan-style tortas at this tiny Lafayette cafe are vivid and satisfying. Think of these sandwiches as deeply seasoned explorations of pork, kissed with the husky tang of the flattop griddle. The Toluca lays down a base of crumbly chorizo flavored with whole anise seeds and flecks of dried chiles under a thin slice of seared pork loin. Super Special #2 is heavy with shredded carnitas turned sloppy-Joe drippy with the sweet, spicy house mole. Even the Cancun contains boiled ham, warmed on the grill and folded up under a seared chicken breast. The tortas’ traditional bolillo rolls get all toasty on the griddle, with top crusts crazed like old porcelain. And the kitchen knows how to keep the rest of the fillings simple so its sammies’ lovely porkiness shines. You won’t walk away from a torta session here with a faceful of sour cream and refried beans, but your fingers may be glossy with pork fat.

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