If You’re Hmong, the New Year Smells Like Turmeric and Green Papaya Salad

The massive grills got packed up last night, but the ghost of grilled quail is no doubt still lingering at the Fresno Fairgrounds. Food at the Central Valley’s annual Hmong New Year’s celebration beats any grilled chicken-on-a-stick or funnel cake you’ve ever tried to digest at the Alameda County Fair. Thy Tran’s vivid account of the weeklong Hmong feast makes champagne, caviar, and lobster seem downright boring.