Best Vegetarian Food: A scrumptious and guilt-free Technicolor spread

Addis

A warning to the militantly flesh-averse: This North Oakland Ethiopian restaurant does serve meat. Some of it even finds its way into the dining room raw, such as kitfo, a preparation that may give some carnivores pause, too. Don’t let that concern you, oh tofu-and-brown-rice stoics, because a meal gleaned from Addis’ sizable veggie column is like that moment in The Wizard of Oz when everything goes Technicolor. Ater kik is a split-pea stew turned daisy-button gold with turmeric, while gomen — braised collards— radiates plenty of rainbow brightness with flavor alone: a sherrylike nuttiness from the greens, punched up with herb oil. There’s nothing subtle about telba fit fit, a fiercely tangy salad made with itty-bitty pieces of injera, Ethiopia’s breadlike pancake of fermented teff-flour batter. Balance the telba’s tang with alicha denich, a comforting stew of potatoes and supersoft carrots, spiked with sunny turmeric. Even omnivores won’t notice the absence of meat.

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