Tofu is democratic. Although it has its own distinct flavor, it elects to become one with the consensus flavor of any given dish. Like our current “democracy,” however, it can be overrun by volatile, nasty elements and carry their bitterness far and wide. Dovi Tofu from Spettro on Lakeshore Avenue is what we all should aspire to be: a more perfect union. A curry-based peanut sauce with sauteed vegetables delivers the right mixture of spicy and subdued, while the cubed, fried tofu is free to revel in its browned edges and crisp, singular flavor. Nothing is out of harmony, yet the combined taste can be a shock to the system with its impression of heaviness and feeling of light. Fight the power, tofu. Fight the power.