Best Roving Barbecue

Horn Barbecue

Oakland is in the throes of a barbecue revival, and one pit master to follow is Matt Horn — seriously, you must follow Horn on Instagram because that’s the only way you’ll hear about his pop-ups. They aren’t consistent in their frequency, but when an announcement appears hundreds happily drop their scheduled activities to wait in line for some of the Bay Area’s best ‘cue. The Central Texas-style brisket stands out for its melt-in-your-mouth, fatty lushness, countered by a peppery, blackened crust. No sauce necessary. The juicy, blistered sausages are excellent, too, with ample spice and smoke. Also strong are the sides, including excellent baked beans, meaty collard greens, and potato salad that might contain more egg than potato. Perhaps most telling of the seriousness of this barbecue is the quintessential slice of plain white sandwich bread on the side to soak up all the juices.

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