The crowd starts to form around 5:45 p.m, most evenings. Given that the place opens for dinner at 5:30, that’s not much of a window. And the last thing you want to do is just miss it, because if you get there right after the line forms, then everyone inside is just being served their meals, so you’re in for a good long wait. But if you arrive early enough, or are willing to endure the wait, or you opt for lunch instead, you’ll see that those crowds descend upon this tiny restaurant for a reason. The menu changes every day, and the dishes vary wildly, except in quality, drawing on recipes from all over India. A mere $7.75 buys free-range chicken or lamb in a savory gravy: sometimes a yogurt curry, sometimes a pepper sauce. For those who feel like splashing out, $11.95 buys tandoori chicken, with a bit of daily variation but consistently full of smoky goodness. Another two bucks snags an order of naan for sponging up every drop of sauce, but despite the restaurant’s name, the bread is just along for the ride. It’s all about the entrées.