Read online reviews for Berkeley’s newest high-end gelateria and mostly what you’ll find is happy customers waxing poetic about how authentically Italian the gelato at Caravaggio is — how they haven’t had anything like it since that one summer they studied abroad in Rome or Milan or wherever. And all of that is apt enough. But co-owner Emiliano Cecchetti, a genuine Italian with a background in materials science, also has ambitions of starting a health revolution in the gelato world. So while his gelati are made using time-tested traditional techniques, they are also lactose-free and formulated with Palatinose, a naturally occurring sugar substitute. The result is gelato that’s barely sweet at all — a shock to the American palate — but still creamy and true to the flavor of the featured ingredient. The nut flavors, in particular, are an intensely flavorful, but relatively guilt-free, indulgence. You might as well go ahead and have a second scoop.