Best Goat

Sweet Fingers

Jamaican chefs have been seasoning their dishes with curry ever since
East Indian indentured servants brought their culinary talents to the
island in the 19th century. Goat, a signature element of Jamaican
cuisine, was one tasty result of all this culinary cross-pollination,
and today curry goat is as ubiquitous an island delicacy as
ackee and pepperpot. Here in the Bay Area we don’t have that
same tropical devotion to fresh goatmeat, but Sweet Fingers’ curry goat
is something special. The rich, hearty (and relatively low-fat) meat is
more reminiscent of fresh lamb than the gamy old critter you might have
expected, and it’s stewed until absolutely lush and tender, with creamy
chunks of peppery carrot and tomato nestled alongside. Following the
Jamaican model, the curry itself is spicy but not as incendiary as the
Indian variety (save the occasional jolt from an errant minced pepper)
and comes with rice and beans and wonderfully silky fried plantains, a
perfect foil for the peppery goat. The Red Stripe’s nice too, and so is
the live reggae on Saturday nights.

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