After seven years, the Pacific East Mall’s bustling chopstick parlor still packs ’em in with an irresistible mix of fast-turnover seafood, a Cantonese-minded kitchen with a flair for roasting, and — last but not least — superlate hours. Surrounded by a welter of garlic slices tamed and crisped in hot oil, roast chicken looks perfectly lacquered, brown and shiny with soy sauce. The skin is as brittle as scorched parchment in places; it clings tenuously to pieces of succulent meat. Mineral sweetness shines through steamed spot prawns — dab one into a mixture of rice wine and soy and it’s like concentrating light through a prism. And the egg noodles buried underneath a pig’s knuckle simmered in a broth of black soy and star anise are beautifully al dente. They’re steeped in the pork’s salty, savory braise — just the thing to devour after midnight, when the evening’s trail of pints might be steeping your own noodle.