We can appreciate a burger at just about any price point, but far too often, the upscale restaurant versions fail to live up to expectations. That’s not at all the case with Perle Wine Bar’s French Onion Dip Burger, a glorious mashup from chef Rob Lam that explodes with umami. The thick, juicy patty rests simply on a toasted, soft milk bun with melted gruyere and caramelized onions. On the side, there’s a deeply jammy French onion soup for dunking, French dip-style. Of course, there are many reasons to visit this Montclair Village destination, including an impressive wine list and the pure talent of Lam, who helmed the San Francisco Asian fusion restaurant Butterfly for 15 years. But the burger’s combination is genius, hearty, and 100 percent worth the higher-end restaurant price of $16 — and a small salad on the side makes it feel like a complete meal.