It is time for stormy weather and a 2025 restaurant roundup. In this case, the 10 most memorable meals of the year. And, I’m happy to report, all are still open for business.
10th: Pizzeria Pappo
It’s no secret in my household that pizza is a sixth food group. Generally speaking, it combines four of the five other food groups together in one slice—all five if one orders the Hawaiian kind. Pizza-wise this year, most of the hype went June’s way, the new parlor in West Oakland. I get it. Big pies, cool location, showers of performative parmesan. But I fell for Pizzeria Pappo. Chef John Thiel had made a Sicilian pepperoni pie when I dropped by and it was exactly what I was in the mood for from the crust on up. He also introduced me to schiacciata, a sandwich bread that’s a delicious alternative to focaccia.
Pizzeria Pappo, 709 Santa Clara Ave., Alameda. pizzeriapappo.com
9th: Lucuma
Lucuma is interested in authenticity as a point of departure and not as a set of strict rules to cook by. Peruvians and their allies will recognize familiar ingredients and flavor profiles, but many of the dishes will taste like a series of revelations. Before eating dinner at Lucuma, I had come to think of Peruvian food as, primarily, roast chicken or stewed chicken sauced with aji, and a side of yucca fries. At Renzo Roca and Garrett Morris’ Oakland restaurant, my eyes were opened. Lucuma opened last summer, but I can still recall the white sauce slathering an oven-roasted piece of salmon. The sauce looked creamy and heavy but it was the opposite, lightened by ginger and lime. I brought a friend who loves short ribs, and we both marveled at how tender they were. Only a dry tres leches cake landed Lucuma lower on this persnickety list.
Lucuma, 1700 Franklin St., Oakland. lucumakitchen.com
8th: Jaji
Jaji’s dining room is designed for celebrations. Our table of eight arrived without a birthday or anniversary in mind, but it still felt like an occasion. Sophia Akbar and Paul Iglesias, who also own nearby Parche, glided from table to table chatting up the guests while attending to their needs and wishes. In some ways, it felt like they’d invited us into their very large home to eat an elegant feast or banquet with them. The food is upscale Afghan—meaning the price point will have an impact on one’s bank account. Lamb lollipops and a whole roasted Cornish game hen are just two of the menu’s many high points.
Jaji, 422 24th St., Oakland. jajioak.com
7th: Cafe Brusco
God bless the inventor of the bagel and bagel makers everywhere. I have yet to find a store-bought bagel that tastes as good as the ones made at bakeries and delis. When Cafe Brusco opened, I had an inkling that the owners would know how to repurpose their dough. As co-owners of Rose Pizzeria, Gerad Gobel and Alexis Rorabaugh have received national acclaim for their pizzas. It’s logical then that their bagels, crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, are also winning over customers. I crave bagels as often as I do pizza. At Cafe Brusco I tried an open-faced bagel with mozzarella cheese, a warm tomato purée and fresh basil leaves. It was the best of both worlds.
Cafe Brusco, 2000 University Ave., Berkeley. cafebrusco.com
6th: Lulu
Food is, of course, the whole point of going out to eat. But while my gray matter summons up a compilation of 2025’s culinary memories, this “best of” list also reflects my experience of a place. Lulu provided me with an invaluable opportunity to slow down and reconnect with an old friend. We both loved what we ordered for brunch as much as we loved spending time together in a welcoming, safe space. When I walk out the door to try a new place, I’m looking for that kind of comfort as much as I am a good meal. Certain restaurants excel at both cooking and hospitality. Lulu is one of them.
Lulu, 1106 Solano Ave., Albany. lulusolano.com
5th through 1st
The five finalists, plus a special guest appearance, will show up in next week’s “WTF.”
