Best Taco Truck: Movable place to munch pork while paying homage to the Virgin

Taqueria Sinaloa #3

It can be tricky to parse out Fruitvale’s runaway best taco truck, since the two or three tastiest ones reveal differences of nuance. But we find ourselves coming back to the ones parked in places we like to stand, scallop-edged paper plates under our chins like some old-school Holy Communion salver, slurping up diced meat in sauce. Sinaloa offers killer tacos al pastor and a semihidden slurping place in front of a shrine to the Virgen de Guadalupe. It’s a heady combination: a country-style, achiote-stained fry-up of nubbly pork pieces and white onion slices on handmade tortillas right next to the owners’ glass-enclosed exercise in spiritual devotion. The shrine is at the northeast corner of Sinaloa’s sprawling parking lot, back by the truck dedicated to seafood cocktails. Lean against the retaining wall that’s vividly banded like the Mexican flag, and say a prayer to deliciousness with fingers anointed in griddle fat.

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