Best Sake Selection: Your cup runneth over

Grasshopper

Bet you never thought sake was such a connoisseur’s drink until you went to Grasshopper. We didn’t, either. Then we read descriptions like “bright cantaloupe, Asian pear, and glycerin notes with a long finish” (Dewazakura Namazake) or “spicy and light-bodied with assertive flavors of anise and Szechwan pepper” (Zen Tokubetsu Junmaishu). This is not the hot stuff you drink from those cute little cups. Crossley Dellis and Frank Freitas have put together an ever-evolving list of 20 to 25 premium bottles, and they want to introduce diners to the sake world. They and the waitstaff will help you sort out your daiginjos from your junmais and will pour your choice, cold, into traditional square wooden boxes — and yes, your cup will literally runneth over, per tradition. They also serve “flights” so you can taste three different sakes side by side. As with wine, the waitstaff can help you pair sakes with Grasshopper’s creative Asian-fusion dishes such as yakitori lamb chops with citrus salad and tea-smoked quail. Kampai.

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