It’s not really Korean BBQ unless you can’t wait to wash the clothes you wore to dinner because of the smoky smell. A lot of joints on Oakland Uptown’s Telegraph Avenue corridor between West Grand and 51st Street fit that bill, but the best of the bunch is just off that strip, at 38th and Broadway. Ohgane Korean BBQ Restaurant may look a bit fancy and intimidating from the outside, but just relax and let your stomach lead the way. The more elegant front room is good for big parties, but if you really want to jump into Korean cuisine, sit in the more bustling back area and cook your own meats at one of the grill tables. Don’t fill up on the panchan (the cold, pickled side dishes served with every Korean meal), be sure to try the Bi Bim Bap, and wash it all down with an ice cold Hite beer. Most Koreans don’t like to be disturbed while eating, so the service might seem cold to the uninitiated, but if you figure out how to use the little buzzer on the corner of your table, you’ll find the staff quite amiable.