Forget the Fryolator: The cooks at Zax turn out oven-baked beauties that make even the best fryer fries seem, well, kind of gross. Sliced in long wedges from skin-on russets, the rigid herb-and-salt-sprinkled fries emerge from a hot oven with an aura that’s frankly potatoey. Their cut facets are the color of caramelized sugar, with the irresistibly sweet and earthy fragrances that form from what food scientists call browning reactions. The less nerdy among us can think of it as eau de hash browns, the mouthwatering smell of crispy. Inside, at the thickest part of the wedge, a Zax oven fry is a steamy mass of fluffy curds. That one-two effect of crusty and tender is reason enough to order a burger here (it includes a mess of oven fries), or get the fries as a side. We bet you’ll never look at a glossy tangle of deep-fat fries in quite the same way.