Best Chicken and Waffles

Brown Sugar Kitchen

Chicken and waffles is one of the great culinary combinations, a hearty
breakfast-time (or anytime) treat that combines the savory crunch of
fried chicken with the crispy sweetness of Belgian waffles. This
soul-food standby doesn’t always live up to its potential, though, and
occasionally lapses into a ponderous platter of starch and grease. At
Brown Sugar Kitchen, a chrome and leatherette temple to nouvelle soul
cuisine in Oakland’s industrial western reaches, such culinary lapses
are out of the question. Here the waffles are feather-light, crisp with
cornmeal, and drizzled with melted butter laced with brown sugar, and
the chicken — pan-fried with an herb-limned buttermilk coating
till hot and crunchy on the outside, moist and tender within —
makes a wonderfully satisfying complement. It’s served with a pitcher
of warm apple-cider syrup, a sharp, sweet orchard-blossom of an accent.
The lime-maroon deco-moderne diner also offers top-shelf
greet-the-morning staples like Blue Bottle Coffee and Blue Chair Fruit
apple butter.

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